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On gas: pilot, thermocouple or gas valve. On electric: a failed element or thermostat. On any heater over ten years old it is worth knowing the tank's condition before spending on parts.

Usually a broken dip tube or a lower element out, sometimes sediment taking up half the tank. All three are diagnosable in one visit.

A leaking tank does not get repaired. Once the inner shell goes, the clock is running -- this is the one to call about today rather than next week.

A single slow fixture is usually local. Several at once, or gurgling when another fixture runs, points at the main line, and that should be cameraed before anyone digs.

Recurring blockage in the same line usually means roots, a belly in the pipe, or a broken section. Clearing it again is treating the symptom.

Failing pressure regulator, a partly closed main, or corrosion in galvanized supply lines. Easy to measure and rule in or out.

A hidden leak, often a slab line or a toilet flapper. The meter test settles it in ten minutes and the cost of waiting is water damage.

Old galvanized supply lines shedding, or the water heater's anode gone. Neither is dangerous immediately; both tell you what the plumbing is going to need.